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While many hotel managers in Siem Reap have retrenched staff during the global financial downturn, the de la Paix management team took a collective pay cut in order to retain all part time and casual workers.

One income supports a dozen people around Siem Reap, a fact other hoteliers have callously ignored.

[caption id="attachment_2179" align="alignnone" width="407"] Landmine clearing sign.[/caption] Carried away again by the tomb raiding atmosphere, I completely forget that it’s a jungle out here. [caption id="attachment_2170" align="alignnone" width="448"] Beng Melea is far from Angkor Wat's madding crowds.[/caption] At Bantey Srey, a lovely pink-hued sandstone temple, known also as the ‘Citadel of the Women’ for its delicately carved inlays of village women, we are also alone.

These sites are only 90 minute’s bone-rattling drive from Angkor Wat, but off the beaten track.

[caption id="attachment_2168" align="alignnone" width="448"] Angkor Wat in late morning sunlight.[/caption] Other temples such as Angkor Thom and Bayon attract similar sized crowds.

When the rainy season reaches full stride during the torrid Cambodian summer, life here changes rapidly.

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During the 1970s, Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge murdered some three million people.

The Vietnamese killed most of the wildlife and bombed temples in the 1980s.

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To gain an appreciation of what lies waiting to be explored, head to Phnom Bakheng atop Temple Mountain and be amazed at the sweeping vista, a sure invitation to venture further a field.

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